Food Tales

ENSAYMADA DELIGHT

Ensaymada with a twist
Ensaymada with a twist

My first choice was Red Velvet – it was simply calling out my name – but I wasn’t going to get a slice because it wasn’t part of the day’s available slices. This is where my grouse with Icings starts. That thought of a customer making do with the slices available to satisfy the sweet craving is terrible. Actually, it’s not just Icings that has made a practice of not cutting up their whole cakes. Red Ribbon, another local cake-pastry place, has made a practice of it, which is so annoying and frustrating.

That my penchant for cakes and pastries is strong is so obvious. They figure so much in my childhood that when I stumble upon a favourite after years of absence on the dining table, it’s such a joyful ride on memory lane. I met an old childhood delight one afternoon day out after Christmas with my parents. From North Park, a noodle place on Tomas Morato, we walked to the back of it to Icings Cakes, Bread & Café. More than a decade ago, Icings was prominently located along Tomas Morato, but it moved elsewhere until my family discovered it returned to Tomas Morato except now it’s on a road perpendicular to it. The old Icings I remember had a dim interior, a glowing cake display and teeming with holiday goodies. The “new” Icings is brighter because of its floor-to-ceiling windows and exuded a more café ambience, meaning it’s a place to chillax or catch up with an old friend over coffee and cake.

Take your pick of Icings whole cakes - regular and seasonal
Take your pick of Icings whole cakes – regular and seasonal

But I resolved to be a little more understanding and tolerant of an odd cake policy. Good vibes in place, Faye, cashier-server, good-naturedly offered alternatives to the unavailable Red Velvet. They included Guiltless Strawberry, Healthy Carrot Cake, Tiramisu, and Pistachio Paradise; the first three slices were our choices paired with hot Spanish Chocolate, Premium House Blend and Café Mocha.

My slice of Guiltless Strawberry, which is perfect with the strong and flavourful Café Mocha, was a pleasant revelation that made me forget about Red Velvet. The strawberry cream icing glided smoothly on my palate – it wasn’t cloying or heavy – and exploded in a nice fruity taste courtesy of the thin ribbons of strawberry icing. Adding to the flavourful rumble on the tongue were the ube bits (a.k.a. purple yam) interspersed into the rows of icing in the middle of the cake. As I took bite after bite of my Guiltless Strawberry and my mum and dad tucked into their Tiramisu and Healthy Carrot Cake slices respectively, I looked around to see the other goodies in the café. My gaze landed on an old childhood delight – Ube Ensaymada.

Guiltless Strawberry is a nice coup de grace to lunch
Guiltless Strawberry is a nice coup de grace to lunch
Strong and flavourful Cafe Mocha goes well with Guiltless Strawberry
Strong and flavourful Cafe Mocha goes well with Guiltless Strawberry

Ensaymada is a throwback to the time the Philippines was a territory of the then super-power, Spain, for more than 300 years. In the Philippines, the Spanish ensaimada evolved into bread looking like the French brioche. Made from flour, eggs and butter, the finished product is sprinkled generously with sugar and cheese. Icings version is pure delight; in place of grated cheese are swirls of ube giving it that distinct Icings look and taste. Every Christmas, we’d have ube ensaymada and gifted a dear aunt of ours with a box. We simply had to share the goodness of ube ensaymada during the festive season! For me, it was truly Christmas even before December 25 arrived. But then Icings moved shop and it was goodbye ube ensaymada until that afternoon.

Without hesitation I had several pieces packed to go and raring to go back for more.

 

ICINGS CAKES, BREADS & CAFÉ

101 Scout Lazcano Street, Quezon City, Philippines

Tel: +63 3720351

Web:  http://www.facebook.com/pages/Icings-Cakes-Breads-and-Cafe